The first 20 kilometers after Basel were not very interesting, I had to ride along the road through an heavy industrial area until Rheinfelden. From Rheinfelden to Kaiserstuhl I rode on cycle paths and a few unpaved roads most of the time. Rheinfelden is a nice village with a bridge crossing to germany, I then followed the Rhine river to Laufenburg then crossed the Rhein on an old bridge amd cycled in Germany to Waldshut, an other old city with a street enclosed by 2 towers. In Koblenz I went back to Switzerland then crossed again in Kaiserstuhl an other nice city to find a camping in Hohentengen.
Camping 9 euros and 50 cts for a hot shower.
Laufenburg
Hohentengen to Winden 95 km
After Teufen I left the Rijn and followed the thur river, lots of unpaved roads but it is well indicated I followed the bike route 95 to Bischofszell. After 20 km I saw the Snowy Alps for the first time I have to say that it wasn 't as nice as yesterday, the only city I found interesting was Bischofszell, the route overwise goes through farming lands.
Nice camping in Winden with a far view of the lake Bodense. 17 Francs Suisse.
Thur river
Bodense is just 15 km from the camping.
Winden - Chur 128 km
Great cycling day that started with the descent to Bodense, nice lake surrounded by mountains. I followed the lake to Rorschach then started a slow ascent to Austria, I crossed the border in Höchst and cycled along the Rhein to Feldkirch wich was a nice mountain city. Today was the Austrian National day, lots of people in leather pants and traditional costumes. From Austria I crossed the border to Lichtenstein and followed the Rhein to Schaan and Vaduz the capital of Lichtenstein, quite small and modern, the historical center has few interest except the outside modern art exhibition. It seems that Arnolfi is from the area because I have seen his bronze in Vaduz and Chur. After Vaduz I followed the Rhein to Chur, beautifull landscape I am now at the bottom of the mountains. Tomorrow is the ascent to Splügenpass 2117 meters !
Camping 17 Fcs.
Popular culture at Bodense
Chur - Splughetta 80 km
I left Chur At 7 am and followed the cycle route up to Tamins. Nice view point but unnecessary ascent, best is to follow the main road. As of Thusis you have 50 km of Ascent to the col. The first part takes you to the Via Mala then Splügen, from Thusis to Splügen it took me 2 hours 30 minutes (including the small stops for pictures). From Splügen to the pass same time. I was over the pass at 3 pm.
It's been one of the most difficult ride I ever done. Temperature 35 degres celsius. Pure masochistic pain and joy when I reached the 2117 meters.
The descent to the camp site in Isola was a pure suicidal one but I couldn't help it, top speed 70 km/h. 2 motobikers tried to get rid of me but they didn't succeeded.
Camping in Isola 17 euros
Splughetta - Garlate 100 km
First stop down the mountain was Chiavenna, typical old italian village, beautiful fountain on the central square. From Chiavenna I folllowed a river to Lago di Mezzolo, then followed the cycle path to Lago di Como. Around the lake traffic was heavy, I followed the road to Varenna then took a ferry to the other side to Bellagio, nice but packed with tourists.
I followed the road to Lecco, big busy city without much interest according to me. I followed the river to the camping in Garlate. Hot day again 35 celsius in the shade, felt like 40 + on the road, around the lake it is very humid.
Camping 10 euros.
Laggo di Como
Garlate - Iseo 90 km
Today it is sunday so I decided to ride on the road to Bergamo, the alternative is an unpaved cycle path in bad state that I was happy to leave. Bergamo is a very nice city, with 2 centers, one on the low side and a citadellle high up, tough ride.
From Bergamo, I cycled to Castello die Mapalga, a medieval casttle wich belonged to the Colleoni family. The other remarquable place was Palazzolo sull' Oglio, I took a plunge in the river with half of the village, temperature was over 40 celsius on the road. After the bath I followed the river to the laggo di Iseo.
Camping 15 euros.
Iseo - Peschiere di Garda 90km
Iseo to Breschia was long because I lost my way several times trying to follow the cycle path. Anyway a few people helped me, one of them mentionned that I was in Lombardia were lived 10 million inhabitants, hence we could be a country of our own !Small hills with wineyards and square farms, quite pleasant.
I had lunch in Breschia, I am not a fan of it's architecture, looks too Mussolinian for me.
Then I proceeded to Laggo di Garda, however the way isn't as nice, I passed dusty areas next to the marbble excavation hills.
Lago di Garda is more accessible than the lakes I have seen so far, lots of Dutch and German tourists here. Desenzano is a nice little village with a port.
Tomorrow I will reach Verona my turning point then I will slowly proceed to Milan and Lago Maggiore.
Camping in Peschiera 16 euros.
Wine and little hills
Peschiera - Bancole 103 km
This morning I screwed up and took the long way to Verona, trying to avoid the big roads. However I ended up in Somacampagna then had to pass Villafranca airport, the last 10 km to Verona were through an industrial and very busy zone unfriendly to bicycle. I couldn't find a friendly bicycle path to enter the city from this side.
Verona is my easter turning point I have to be in Lago Maggiore in Three days. Interesting city, a lot to do and visit. I mainly walked around checked the Villa de Giuletta, I needed to see THE balcony surrounded by a horde of tourists who have a hollywood idea of romantism, happily drawing silly hart graffitis on the walls of the alleged house of Giuletta, next thing is probably throwing coins in water holes and attaching locks on bridges.
After a well deserved lunch I took small roads to Mantova, no cycle path here but the ride through corn fields was flat and pleasant after leaving the industrial zone of Verona. I am staying in a farm 2 kilometers north of Mantova: Corte Chiara in Bancole. Nice people, food is excellent.
Price for a tent and a meal with great Lambrusco 25 euros.
The balcony
Bancole - Villanova sull' Arda 135 km
The ride to Mantova was quick. I liked this city, interesting size, I walked around saw the usual Pallazio, churches and mixed architectural style from Classical to Mauresque.
I left following Cyclovelo 23 to Parma, unfortunately the floating bridge was merely flloating, not enough water, I couldn't cross an alluent of the Pô so I had to change my itinerary. I wanted to follow the Pô to Cremona but the party in the café in Gazzuolo convinced me to see Parma and take the main road. They said that around 1pm there is less traffic. It is true the problem is that traffic resumed at 1:30. Anyway I stopped in Sabbionetta a Unesco site, plenty of german speaking archeologists measuring the houses around. It is a fortress with some remarquable buildings, including an old synagogue.
Then I rushed to Parma on the main road, risking my life for 40 km especially on the crossing of the Pô they were railings on both side a good way to get squeazed by a truck.
Anyway I arrived in Parma after cycling 80 km but stayed only one hour, just enough to check the city center with my bike then I decided to ride an other 60 km to Cremona.
Nice ride, following a cycling path to Viarolo, San Secondo Parmense, Roccabianca (nice medieval castle), Zibello, Polesine Parmense then stopped in Villanova. 10 km before Cremona a sign Oasis of bikes draw my attention, I proceeded to the farm house (hacienda), rang my bell to wake up dogs and cats, a man appeared and told me I could stay for 15 euros, I understood 50 and was ready to proceed to the camping when he added somethings like "and it also includes breakfast", at the tone of his voice I understood that he said 15 not 50. On top of that he was ready to have dinner and we ate together, garden peas and peperonis, the turkey of the house, cheese from the area and fantastic coppa, life is good !
Room 15 euros including breakfast (left more for the dinner, big discussion with Fasoli who didn't want any extra money) A great experience I highly recommand to stop here at least to greet Fasoli and his dogs: oasisofbikes.com
Oasis of Bikes to Milan 140 km
Easy ride to Cremona, 12 km on cycle path in the Pô valley. I liked Cremona and took my time wandering aroud. I actually regretted cycling to Parma yesterday. From Cremona I followed an unpaved road until I left the province of Cremona, in the province of Lodi I followed a well indicated route "the Francisgena" to Lodi. From Lodi I biked on roads to Milan, most of the time I could use side roads cycle path.
Cycling in Milan is dangerous, even on cycle path, you have to be alert ! A big bourgeoise city, plenty of tourists not my favorite on a cycle trip !
Camping is horrible, stupid music concert all night long, at 2am I couldn't sleep. One more call for the boycottt of the Expo. On top of that the camping is full of weird dogs for the dog show world cup, some of them barked during the night, slept only three hours. Angry !
Camping too expensive 20 euros
Crossing the Pô
Milan
Milan - Stresa 108 km
This has been my 11th day cycling without a break, but tonight a well deserved 2 days break with Irene is starting in Lago Maggiore.
20 kilometers to leave Milan on the north were painfull, I used my GPS to Cestano, then reached an off road cycle path in the Parco del Ticino and followed a canal to Sesto Calende and Lago Magiore. We are staying in the mountains, hard ride from Meina to Brovello-Carpugrino were we will stay the Week-End. Big storm with thunder when I was cycling on the canal, saw a huge flash, too close, had to hide in the forest far away from my bike and wait for it to pass by.
No comments:
Post a Comment