Berlin to Amsterdam

Last part of my Antwerp - Berlin - Amsterdam trip

Berlin - Magdeburg 183 Km

Exiting Berlin can take more than one and a half hour because of the size of the city. Potsdam is definitely a nice place to bike around with its lake and history with the casttle Sans-Souci, you can easily spend 2 hours there. From Potsdam I went through the forests to the National park after Kloster Lehnin south to Görzke, daw some deers. Up to day my deer count in Germany is 20, my squirels count is only 10. Then I cycle along a busy road to Möckern and Magdeburg called The Romanic road, you see lots of medieval towers and churches in the villages around.

Magdeburg is one of my favorite city on that trip, the mix of modern and historical buildings is a success. The city is open and organised around a main avenue surrounded by small neighborhoods organised around historical or modern squares. Plenty of life, it is a student city and art is everywhere. The highlight being the Green citadel Of Hundertwasser.

Youth Hostel 25 euros including breakfast.

Wansee

Magdeburg

Magdeburg - Braunscheig 122 km 

The Elbe valley part is quite flat and not that interesting untill a few km from Helmstedt. Talked to an old guy in Helmstedt who told me that the east/west border was 3 km away but I didn't notice any difference while cycling. I took a small road to Königslutter then Braunschweig.

I was quite happy to arrive before 5 pm. Unfortunately the attendant at the tourist office lead me to an elusive camping site. I cycled 1 hour in a beautiful parc and couldn't find anything. Fortunately I stopped Georg and Suzana, who called the tourism office, help me find a room in town, they even tried to talk to the owner of a sport center, nothing worked they offered to stay in their garden house a few km away but the hotel was quite convenient. Unfortunately because of this I didn't have time to visit Braunschweig. After my hotel I went out to a restaurant with Georg and Suzana, great fun ! I hope to see them again.

Hotel Meyer 35 euros 

Helmstedt

Georg and Suzi

Braunschweig - Mardorf 138 km

Nice ride to Peine through a forest, then you have to listen to the clock of Peine, a trumpet annouces the hours then the bells. From Peine I followed the bike route mostly along the train rail to Lerhte, not much to see in this city, pass your way. The ride through Hanover was very long I checked a few buildings, but it isn't a very attractive place so I kept going to Stöcken, Meyenfeld, Horst and Neustadt then I found a camping on the lake in Mardorf. Mardorf is set on a beautiful lake.

Camping am zee 10,50 euros

Braunscheig

On the way to Peine

Hannover train station

Mardorf - Osnabrück 140 km

Left early, no wind, misty lake. I cycled to Loccum on the cycle ways. Then I cycled between the road and the canal to Petershagen, nice village, from there followed the canal to Minden. In Minden I followed another canal to Osnabrück dirt road most of the time but worth it, nice three hour ride to Bad Essen wich is a nice village. Between Minden and Bad Essen there is no food or water unless you quit the canal. From Bad Essen I went to Osnabrück over the mountain.

My first impression of Osnabrück was quite negative as two car drivers yeld at me without reason, when I tried to ask for direction people were ignoring me. However after 7pm, the city seemed more relaxed though. I had a Falafel dinner in the old city and chatted with my table mate Cristina, then we both headed to a concert hall near by to listen to the Pulp Funktion, a groovy band. Free music in town today.

Youth hostel 30 euros

The lake in Mardorf

Christina

The Pulp Funktion in Osnabrück

Osnabrück to Goor (The Netherlands) 145 km

Today is the german reunification day. All shops are closed. Roads are empty so I took the main road to Enschede in Holland. There are a few hills around Osnabrück but they are getting smaller once you approach The Netherlands. I passed a few town without much interest. I talked to a guy on a recumbent bike going to Berlin, he was riding an Optima Condor, nice bike, I still have to try one of these. Found a camping between Goor and Markelo, nice place in the woods.

Camping 11 euros

Last dinner in the woods

Goor to Almere 125 km

Easy going ride on a flat road through the woods. Rushed to Deventer, stopped at Oude Molen. The wind was pushing me. Decenter is quite nice, it was market day, I took my time and had a nice Latte. Then I headed to Het Loo the queen's palace in Appeldorn and road some dunes in the woods all the way to Nijkerk then Almere. So far 142 km per day average since Berlin 6 days ago. Tomorrow relax ride to Amsterdam and to Irene's mum, should be around 70 km.

Staying with Irene at her sister's.

In case you doubt I reached The Netherlands.

Almere - Amsterdam 40 km

That's it for now, I have cycled for more than 10 000 km around Belgium in a year. What's next ?

Berlin - Poland - Berlin

 3 days trip around Berlin including a day in Poland.

Berlin - Bad Freienwalde 82 Km

Easy relaxing afternoon ride to Bad Freienwalde after a morning in Berlin. Bad Freiendale is surrounded by forest a perfect location for mountain biking. It is also a few kilometers away from Poland where I intend to bike. My back wheel gave up around Berlin, 2 spokes were broken and the others were about to collapse fortunately there is a very good bike shop in Bad Freienwalde, the owner speaks a perfect english, service and work quality is fantastic and pricing is reasonable, the bike was fixed in less than an hour. The shop deals mainly with Cube bikes, a german manufacturer. This is the web site  www.rad-freienwalde.de you can't miss the shop in the main shopping street of Bad Freienwalde.

Because of the bike repair I couldn't find a camp site but went to a B&B for 35 euros.

Bad Freienwalde - Chojna - Niederfinow 112 km

This morning I went exploring 50 km of Polish territory. The road to Chojna was all right, not too many trucks and nice countryside, very different from Germany once you pass the river oder. Chojna is a city were you have a few achitectural buidings from the 15th century. I then took the road to Schwedt Oder,     this is a dangerous road with lots of trucks, sadly there are prostitutes every 2 kilometers or less waiting for customers and thinking I was one. Lots of "hello mijn Liebe" for 20 km. On top of this some fast drivers were overestimating their driving abilities and I almost witnesses an accident. I was glad to find Germany again.

Schwedt Oder is a "nature reserve city" from there I followed the Oder and despite the rain it was a fantastic ride, I spotted about 15 deers and saw numerous beautiful birds. I cycled along the Oder until Oderberg then entered an other parc, the Biosphere Reserve of Chorin, found a camping along a river in Niederfinow. I am the only customer, no one seem crazy enough to camp in this cold weather but it is a fantastic evening the owner lit a fire for me in a cabin and they have a dark beer to keep me warm before I find my sleeping bag.

Camping 7,50 euros

Niederfinow - Berlin 88 km

Nice road along the river to Eberswalde, then through the forest to Berlin, I followed a cycle path from Eberswalde to Berlin.

Antwerp - Berlin Part 3

Bernburg to Lutherstadt Wittenberg 113 km

Visited Bernburg, nice place then followed a small river to Köthen, bad idea too many cobblestone path. Köthen is not worth it. Then went to Dessau, not very interesting either. However from Dessau I took a small road to Wörlitz, nice village with an interesting parc part on the Elbe biosphere reserve. From there I went to the city where Luther created the reformed church: Lutherstadt Wittenberg. Interesting place a bit like the Lourdes of Protestantism, the city is under big renovation work, almost ready for the 500 years of the reformation in 2017. Note that the potato restaurant the Black Bear is excellent and reasonnably price.

Tonight I am staying in a youth hostel in the city center, sharing a room with a guy following the steps of Luther... What an exciting evening (sob)...

Youth Hostel 25 euros including breakfast.

Lutherstadt Wittenberg - Berlin 122 km

Small roads to Berlin, almost no car. Went through Zahna, Eckmansdorf, Bardenitz, Dobrikow, Phillipstadt and Berlin.

Nice road alterning forest, nature parcs and farm land, almost no cars. It is a good alternative to the R1 or R2, you can also pass by Postdam if you wish to. Not many cafés or nice cities on that way though, make sure you have food and water.

Staying with friends Joe and Kelly. A comfy bed in a house tonight.

Selfie in Berlin, in case you wonder !

1128 Km from Antwerp, in 9 days, mainly following the Europarad 1, average 125 km per day.

The R1 is not the best European route I have followed so far, too many dirt roads badly maintained, lots of paved parts with old kind of cobblestones, I suggest to do somes cuts on asphaltes routes. 

Next is a small trip behind the Polish border, back to Berlin and back to Antwerp on the bike, on a different route, should be shorter.

Antwerp - Berlin Part 2

Sassenberg - Höxter 146 km

Rain all night but lucky me the morning is dry. I biked to Gutersloh via Harsewinkel, pleasant ride, horses, appels and hazelnuts... Then kept on to Verl and Schloß Holte where the hills are more serious. After Augustdorf I went to Detmold nice city but didn't have much time. From Detmold I took the R1 again, fantastic ride, very hilly all the way up to the Marien feild monastry and then to Höxter, very nice city with old houses, nice woody area and I am now under my tent, next to the river, thunderbolts lightning the area, my cocoon will hold hopefully. Camping on the river Weser 8,50 euros.

Höxter 

Hey George Clooney, what else ?

Höxter - Goslar 139 km

Fantastic ride following the R1 again, flat along the river untill Holzminden charming village.Then slowly uphill to Einbeck a nice city center, from there it gets very difficult specially after Seseen, it is best to avoid the R1, the path is in very bad state, at one point I couldn't bike the last 10 meters of a hill it was too slippery, there was also a cobblestone hill not very pleasant with a tree in the middle of the path, good path with a mountain back.

Goslar is one of the most interesting city in the area. Very pleasant with a unique architecture.

Camping 8,50 euros.

Market in Einbeck !

Rainy day ! Trees are falling.

Goslar - Bernburg 133 km

It rain all day and today I didn't take the R1 too many sections off road. I went to Betingrode first, nice little village then Blankenburg, nice city and to Quellingsburg, beautiful city, Unesco World Heritage, where the first German kings were crowed (that's what I understood ) note that in the 2 tourism offices they have only one young guy speaks an approximate english.

After Quellingsburg I took a very busy road to Asherschleben, saw some interesting old medieval towers then a quick route to Güsten and Bernsberg. Seems that a nice city, I will explore tomorrow morning. Found a camping on the Saale river. 9 euros.

Former East - West Border

Crossing the Saale river on a small ferry, background is Bernburg Castle.

Antwerp - Berlin Part 1

Antwerp - Oirschot (NL) 110 km.

This is the last trip before the cold months. Hopefully after that trip I will have done more than 10 000 km on my bike in a year. 

Leaving Antwerp through the North is never very pleasant because of it's large industrial areas and heavy density with poor bicycle path.  I went to Wijnegem and headed to Oostmalle on the N12. I would recommand an other route if you ever go in that direction, there is a nice cycle way along the canal starting in Schoten to Turnhout, I wanted to see something else but the other way is nice for just 5 km extra. From Oostmalle though you can reach Rijkevorsel, Poppel, Esbeek, Diessen and Oirschot following bike routes in the country side, you might see a few cars but I felt alone on most of the way specially around the border. In one of my day trips from Antwerp I already biked along the Dutch Belgium border not far from the route I took today and reached Baarle-Hertog a Belgium enclave in The Netherlands, I recommand a day tour in that enclave with a peculiar history, or even better get your bikes and tour the area. i found a nice camping on a farm: De Goos in Oirschot, 8.50 euros, quiet and clean. tomorrow I will probably cross parts of The Nederlands and Germany.

Belgium - Dutch border

Pasta tonight !

Oirschot - 'S Heerenberg (Stokkum) 124 km

After a nice night, I woke up under the mist, visited Oirschot a nice little village worth a day visit and had a coffee 10 km further in Best, nice ride in the country untill Gennep. After Gennep I cycled to Sint Oedenrode through the country. From Sint Oedenrode to Veghel the cycle path is along side the motorway, better if you can avoid that then I cut through the country to St Hubert. From Ven Zelderheide to Kleve in Germany, not a very nice ride as I followed the main road, quite busy though I cycled through a forest wich could be worth going through on a less direct way and crossed the Rhein river, 25 km later I was back in Holland just next to the border in Stokkum, beautifull area, nice castle and gardens in 'S Heerenberg.

Camping free.

Germany is greeting me, 1 hour later I was back in The Netherlands

Castle of Stokkum

An evening visitor on my front wheel

Stokkum - Lette 129 Km

Nice area around Stokkum and the first hill, I am leaving The Netherlands, probably 50 meters elevation. I rode through the woods to Terborg, it looks more like a german city van a Dutch city, even the language they speak is different. I had my bike fixed in Gaanderen, after 8000 km, the axis had too much play, nice people they fixed it immediately and changed a piece all of that for 5 euros what a service, now everything seems in order again. If you are in the area, that's where you can go for your bike, Anton bike repair, 148 Rijkweg in Gaanderen. I hope that it will hold to the end of the journey I should really change the all    bloc. My last city in Holland was Winterswijk, market was in town good atmosphere.

Then I screwed up the minute I biked in Germany I went North then south, find out that tourism offices are closed between 12 and 2:30 pm, they didn't have the map of the cycle path R1 that according to the web site should be available at the tourist office, on top of that nobody speaks english and apparently my dutch doesn't sound german enough. I felt lonely today and cycled 129 km for a route that could have been done in 90 km. With all that stress (yes I am the anxious type) I didn't fully enjoy the cities I passed or the countryside but tomorrow is an other day. Nothing really special in Coesfeld or Lette. Tomorrow I am determined to cycle back on the R1 from Münster.

Camping in Lette is 7 euros, nice lady who speaks english.

All they say on the sign is true ! Anton bike repair shop: No appointment, quick service !

Lette - Sassenberg 112 km

Went to Rorup then followed the R14 bicycle route to Münster. Had lunch in Münster, interesting city with a lake close to the city center. Then I followed the R1 to Warendorf, hilly and nice, some road section are in bad condition almost for a mountain bike, very bumpy. Warendorf is a nice little village worth visiting. Don't stay at the Warendorf camping and bike 8 extra Km to Sassenberg, this is from an "official source" apparently the ones in Sassenberg have better reputation and it is approved by myself. Note that few people speak english in the area, it is the first Tourism office where the person could speak english (out of 4), even the guy at the tourism office of Münster had a limited english.

Camping in Sassenberg is 8 euros, 50 cents for a hot shower and 4 euros for WiFi in the tent: 12,50 euros. Tonight it is Schnitzel mit Kartoffeln und ApfelSchole or something like that Rain has come, tomorrow will be a wet day.

The R14 goes through a farm 

This guy really wants to sell his potatoes !

To be continued...

From Belgium to Spain Part 3

I know that it has been a while, I have been back for a month now, anyway this is the last update for this trip. I stayed a week in Bordeaux, Irene joined me to the wine festival. Meanwhile I cycled around the Medoc wine area, to the lake of Hourtin 122 km, to Margaux 60 km and other places about 50 extra km.  Then it was time to go to Spain, I eventually decided to head up for the Basque country following the coastal cycling route EuroVelo 1, then head back to Bordeaux, the end of the trip in only 5 days.

Parempuyre (Haut-Médoc) - Moliets 182 km

I should have gone to Lacanau from Parempuyre, there is a nice cycle path that I cycled once. However I wanted to go to Spain as quickly as possible, I had only a few days remaining so I took the road going to Arcachon, the D1250 and then catching the cycle path again in Parentis. Big mistake, the road was very dangerous, straight, long and boring.
From Parentis I found the bike path it is then became a fantastic ride, through the sand dunes, along the lakes and the forest. The ride is easy because it is relatively flat, there is enough shade and you can always stop on the sea side villages to have an ice cream or lunch. I was fast and was surprised to see the number of kilometres I rode that day. I found a camping not far from the beach, price was 17 euros (my most expensive camping on this trip).

EuroVelo 1

Cork

The beach on the Atlantic coast

From Parentis-en-Born to Moliets-et-Maa

Moliets to Hondarribia (Spain) 115 km

Very bad weather but stil very enjoyable ride along the coast. From Moliets you stay on the cycle path until the suburb of bayonne. Bayonne is a nice city, I had lunch in the old town. Unfortunately the weather wasn't good and I had to cycle under the rain after lunch.
From Bayonne I followed the cost all the way to Hendaye altering cycle path and streets. The highlight being Biarritz and the Corniche in Hendaye, beautiful scenery. In Hendaye I took a small ferry to cross the Bidassoa estuary to Hondarribia where I found a nice camping at the point over looking France on the other side of the bay. Camp site 11 euros.

Bayonne the Adour river is high

Biarritz

The Corniche between St Jean de Luz and Hendaye

The ferry that took me accross for 2 euros

View of Hendaye from Hondarribia

Basque architecture

From Hondarribia to Cap Breton through Espelette 120 km

An other rainy day, it is the Basque Country after all ! On my bike I tend to like days like this, colors are different and with the right rain gear, it is all right. Today I decided to cycle along the river Bidassoa to the village of Bera, cycling the Col de Lizuniega to Sare, Ainhoa and Espelette where I ate a fantastic sandwich with Basque Cheese, red cherry and the famous Gateau Basque. I bought some Piment d'Espelette. The ride along the river Bidassoa is on a dirt road it was ok with regular tyres but I had a few difficult passages with big rocks and lot of mud, mountain bike tyres would have been better. The scenery is spectacular. mountain on both sides, wild water and not a soul. There are a few tunnels through the montain which are lit automatically when you ride through, some are with a manual switch, and you don't see through them, you'd better switch on your lights as well in case the timer stops too early, it happened to me.
In Bera I headed back to France following a small road to Sera then up to the Col de Lizuniega, beautiful view, easy ride up, "pur plaisir". From there I rode down the valley and up again on a more busy road to Espelette.
After lunch I followed the river Nive on a beautiful cycle path along fields of Peper d'Espelette to Bayonne.
In Bayonne I caught the cycle path I took when I came one day earlier cycling back this time to Cap Breton, 20 km from Moliets. I could see a guy struggling against the wind in front of me, I eventually caught up and we chatted while cycling together to Cap Breton where we shared a place at the camp site. He was tired when I caught him but at the end of the day I was also extremely tired. That night we watch soccer in the snack of the Camping municipal. The morning after Lothar was already gone when I woke up, I didn't hear him fold his tent.
Price per night 12 euros. The Camping Municipal offers services to cyclists, tools, repair kits, pump, cleaning stuff etc... are available, the next morning I used some grease for my chain.

An other stormy day

Following the Rio Bidassoa on a dirt path

The green way of Bidassoa

A short tunnel, you can see an other one a bit further

Espelette the dry Chili pepper is hanging at the shop

From Cap Breton to Biscarosse 135 km

Same cycling path I took three days ago still it is very pleasant to see the same forest, no cars, just a few bikers and people walking. Around 11am I caught up Lothar and we had lunch together. Some nice cheese he bought at a market in one of the village we passed. Then we cycled our parted, after Parentis instead of going to Bordeaux through the main road I followed the cycle path to Biscarosse. On my way I met a cyclist and a guy walking on sticks from Brittany to the Landes for a charity event L'Echassier du coeur. I found a camping on the Etang de Biscarosse, unfortunately despite the location the camping was very noisy with stupid animation and music until 12am and people still chatting out loud next to my tent until 2 am. It is one of this mega-camping where they entertain the tourists called Campaneole that I would advise you to avoid if you look for a quiet place. Price 12 euros.

Lothar my bike buddy for a day, never heard of him again I hope that he safely reached Hamburg by now.

L'échassier du coeur

Next to the lake but noisy camping

Biscarosse - Bordeaux 117 km

The last leg of my journey. I am sad, I wish I could keep cycling at least three more years. I went through a different road this time. I wanted to cycle through the big sand dunes to the Pyla (the Dune du Pilat is located in Pyla), then around the Bassin d'Arcachon. In the village of Lanton I left the cycle path and took a small deserted road to the suburb of Bordeaux.

The top of the trees under the Dune du Pilat, moving forward 3 to 4 meters a year.

My favorite restaurant next to Bordeaux Lou Couqueou where my brother and I were authorised by the owner to lick the plate ! 

2200 km total in three weeks

14 days cycling from Belgium to Spain and 3 more days back to Bordeaux (without the stop in Bordeaux and the day trips cycling around)

Average 110 km per day on the trip.

THE END ...