Belgium to Italy - Part 3 - The way back to Alsace through Switzerland

Brovello - Brig 115 km

After 2 days break in Anna's wonderful place in Brovello https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5334379 and despite the rain I had to leave Laggo Maggiore. Anna's place in the mountain was very nice and I wish Irene had more time, Anna kindly offered me to stay one more night because of the rain, I accepted and left Monday morning under a light rain ready to climb the Simplon Pass, 2008 meters from Italy to Switzerland.

A long and challenging ride from 7am to 5pm under a few rain showers and occasionnaly sun. From Stresa to Domodossolo I was slightly going up, I felt good. After Domodossolo I took the S33 to Simplon then the way started to be tougher, not a huge pourcentage but a killing regular ascent. When I reached Isele I was exhausted and I still had 40 km of ascent to the Simplon Pass. The other problem was the traffic, way too many big trucks and lots of semi-open tunnels. At one point in a tunnel a truck tried to pass me behind a temporary separation line for workers and he hit a few boards passing me, he decided to ignore the red traffic light 600 meters ahead to go away from the mess he created. I would recommand to take the train from Isele to Brig if you don't want to deal with trucks.

Anyway the Simplon pass itself is beautiful, on the way I visited the Napoleon Caserne with a nice exhibition about the Simplon pass. Apparently this was the first transalpine road ever built for carriages.

The long descent of 20 km to Brig was fun, top speed 79 km.

Camping Geshina is very nice and clean 14 euros. 

An old bridge for mules

Simplon Pass 2008 meters next to the Hospice

Brig - Bern 130 km

Brig to Gampel, flat and easy. Then 500 meters ascent to Goppenstein. In Goppenstein I continued the ascent and did an extra 600m ascent to 1750 meters following the valley of Lötschental to Farfleralp. It was a dead end, I screwed up, lost 2 hours, but it was beautiful. I turned back to Goppenstein and took the train to go on the other side to Kandersteg, there is no other way. From Kandersteg I went down to Spiez under a heavy rain and folllowed the cycle route 64 to Bern.

Camping in Eichholz 21 euros.

Lötschental valley

Village of Kippel in the Löschental

Bern - Oltingue 145 km

Had a coffee with croissant in Bern expecting a quite flat ride today after the crossing of the Alps. It happended to be a crazy ride today, pushed to the limits, I still had to cross the Jura mountains. The first part to Aarberg via Goloten following cycling route 8 was easy, a few small hills through weat fields and forests. I followed that road to Biel (Bienne) next to a lake facing a 800 meters long narrow mountain, I followed it to the right to Grenchen and started a very steep ascent to the top of Grenchenberg for 2 hours. The good thing though is the one hour descent to Moutier and Soyhiere. 

After Moutier I met Sehoon a cyclist from South Korea.

Last effort a steep ascent to Moulin Neuf and Kiffis then a 10 km descent to Oltingue.

My friend Silvio picked me up after a well deserved pizza in his restaurant and I stayed with him in Huningue.

The bear of Bern

Alpage of Grenchenberg

Sehoon from Korea

Hunningue - Sélestat 98 km

Easy flat ride following the Canal de Hunningue to Kembs, then following the bike path to Neuf Brisach that I visited, the last fort Vauban built. On the other side of the Rhin the old city of Breisach is worth a short visit. I resumed my trip following a canal to Mackhenheim, I enjoyed this ride. Leaving the canal I rode for 13 km on the road to Selestat.

Nice camping municipal Les Cigognes 7 euros

 From the 3 countries bridge over the Rhein in Huningue: Germany Switzerland and France from left to right !

Entrance of the Vauban city Neuf Brisach

Sélestat - Saverne 84 km

I met 2 cyclists from Spain at the camping and they invited me over for a coffee and croissant in town, nice breakfast next to the church.

I followed the "veloroute des vins" to Dambach La Ville a typical médieval Alsacian village, then Rosheim, Marmoutier and Saverne. Lots of small hills, it is the beginning of The Vosges. Most of the villages were pleasant to see, my progression was slow. Lots of nice view point.

Camping 6,50 euros

Sélestat

The wine route the Vosges in the background

Saverne - Siltzheim 87 km

This is the last ride of the trip through the Alsace Bossue and The Vosges. Irene us picking me up with the car at our friend's place in Siltzheim a town at the northern tip of Alsace, about 350 km from Antwerp. Unfortunately it rained all morning.

From Saverne I cycled along the canal Rhin-Rhone to Lutzerbourg then I left the canal took the D97 and D46 to Lixheim. In Bickenholtz I followed the road to Eschwiller, Wolfskirchen and Harskirchen where I followed the Canal des Houillères that I already followed on my way down 3 weeks ago. Except for the rides along the canals, the 40 kilometers on the road where successive ascents of approximatively 60 meters and descents. 

Canal Rhin - Rhône interesting graffiti

Bunker along the canal des Houillières in Herbitzheim

From the 21st of May to the 21st of June.

31 days, 26 days of cycling, 2 days rest in the Ardennes, 1 in Basel, 2 in Laggo Maggiore.

Total around 2700 km. Average around 104 km per day.

Cycled in Belgium, Luxembourg, France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Lichtenstein and Italy

See you soon !

Belgium to Italy Part 2 - Basel to Milan

Basel to Hohentengen 100 km

The first 20 kilometers after Basel were not very interesting, I had to ride along the road through an heavy industrial area until Rheinfelden. From Rheinfelden to Kaiserstuhl I rode on cycle paths and a few unpaved roads most of the time. Rheinfelden is a nice village with a bridge crossing to germany, I then followed the Rhine river to Laufenburg then crossed the Rhein on an old bridge amd cycled in Germany to Waldshut, an other old city with a street enclosed by 2 towers. In Koblenz I went back to Switzerland then crossed again in Kaiserstuhl an other nice city to find a camping in Hohentengen.

Camping 9 euros and 50 cts for a hot shower.

Laufenburg

Waldshut

Hohentengen to Winden 95 km

After Teufen I left the Rijn and followed the thur river, lots of unpaved roads but it is well indicated I followed the bike route 95 to Bischofszell. After 20 km I saw the Snowy Alps for the first time I have to say that it wasn 't as nice as yesterday, the only city I found interesting was Bischofszell, the route overwise goes through farming lands.

Nice camping in Winden with a far view of the lake Bodense. 17 Francs Suisse.

Thur river

Bodense is just 15 km from the camping.

Winden - Chur 128 km

Great cycling day that started with the descent to Bodense, nice lake surrounded by mountains. I followed the lake to Rorschach then started a slow ascent to Austria, I crossed the border in Höchst and cycled along the Rhein to Feldkirch wich was a nice mountain city. Today was the Austrian National day, lots of people in leather pants and traditional costumes. From Austria I crossed the border to Lichtenstein and followed the Rhein to Schaan and Vaduz the capital of Lichtenstein, quite small and modern, the historical center has few interest except the outside modern art exhibition. It seems that Arnolfi is from the area because I have seen his bronze in Vaduz and Chur. After Vaduz I followed the Rhein to Chur, beautifull landscape I am now at the bottom of the mountains. Tomorrow is the ascent to Splügenpass 2117 meters !

Camping 17 Fcs.

Bodense

Popular culture at Bodense

Vaduz capital of Lichtenstein

Chur - Splughetta 80 km

I left Chur At 7 am and followed the  cycle route up to Tamins. Nice view point but unnecessary ascent, best is to follow the main road. As of Thusis you have 50 km of Ascent to the col. The first part takes you to the Via Mala then Splügen, from Thusis to Splügen it took me 2 hours 30 minutes (including the small stops for pictures). From Splügen to the pass same time. I was over the pass at 3 pm.

It's been one of the most difficult ride I ever done. Temperature 35 degres celsius. Pure masochistic pain and joy when I reached the 2117 meters.

The descent to the camp site in Isola was a pure suicidal one but I couldn't help it, top speed 70 km/h. 2 motobikers tried to get rid of me but they didn't succeeded.

Camping in Isola 17 euros

Splughetta - Garlate 100 km

First stop down the mountain was Chiavenna, typical old italian village, beautiful fountain on the central square. From Chiavenna I folllowed a river to Lago di Mezzolo, then followed the cycle path to Lago di Como. Around the lake traffic was heavy, I followed the road to Varenna then took a ferry to the other side to Bellagio, nice but packed with tourists.

I followed the road to Lecco, big busy city without much interest according to me. I followed the river to the camping in Garlate. Hot day again 35 celsius in the shade, felt like 40 + on the road, around the lake it is very humid.

Camping 10 euros.

Chiavenna

Laggo di Como

Garlate - Iseo 90 km

Today it is sunday so I decided to ride on the road to Bergamo, the alternative is an unpaved cycle path in bad state that I was happy to leave. Bergamo is a very nice city, with 2 centers, one on the low side and a citadellle high up, tough ride.

From Bergamo, I cycled to Castello die Mapalga, a medieval casttle wich belonged to the Colleoni family. The other remarquable place was Palazzolo sull' Oglio, I took a plunge in the river with half of the village, temperature was over 40 celsius on the road. After the bath I followed the river to the laggo di Iseo.

Camping 15 euros.

Bergamo

Way too hot had a swim in the river

Iseo - Peschiere di Garda 90km

Iseo to Breschia was long because I lost my way several times trying to follow the cycle path. Anyway a few people helped me, one of them mentionned that I was in Lombardia were lived 10 million inhabitants, hence we could be a country of our own !Small hills with wineyards and square farms, quite pleasant.

I had lunch in Breschia, I am not a fan of it's architecture, looks too Mussolinian for me.

Then I proceeded to Laggo di Garda, however the way isn't as nice, I passed dusty areas next to the marbble excavation hills.

Lago di Garda is more accessible than the lakes I have seen so far, lots of Dutch and German tourists here. Desenzano is a  nice little village with a port.

Tomorrow I will reach Verona my turning point then I will slowly proceed to Milan and Lago Maggiore.

Camping in Peschiera 16 euros.

Wine and little hills

Breschia

Peschiera - Bancole 103 km

This morning I screwed up and took the long way to Verona, trying to avoid the big roads. However I ended up in Somacampagna then had to pass Villafranca airport, the last 10 km to Verona were through an industrial and very busy zone unfriendly to bicycle. I couldn't find a friendly bicycle path to enter the city from this side.

Verona is my easter turning point I have to be in Lago Maggiore in Three days. Interesting city, a lot to do and visit. I mainly walked around checked the Villa de Giuletta, I needed to see THE balcony surrounded by a horde of tourists who have a hollywood idea of romantism, happily drawing silly hart graffitis on the walls of the alleged house of Giuletta, next thing is probably throwing coins in water holes and attaching locks on bridges.

After a well deserved lunch I took small roads to Mantova, no cycle path here but the ride through corn fields was flat and pleasant after leaving the industrial zone of Verona. I am staying in a farm 2 kilometers north of Mantova: Corte Chiara in Bancole. Nice people, food is excellent.

Price for a tent and a meal with great Lambrusco 25 euros.

Tent opening !

The balcony

Bancole - Villanova sull' Arda 135 km

The ride to Mantova was quick. I liked this city, interesting size, I walked around saw the usual Pallazio, churches and mixed architectural style from Classical to Mauresque.

I left following Cyclovelo 23 to Parma, unfortunately the floating bridge was merely flloating, not enough water, I couldn't cross an alluent of the Pô so I had to change my itinerary. I wanted to follow the Pô to Cremona but the party in the café in Gazzuolo convinced me to see Parma and take the main road. They said that around 1pm there is less traffic. It is true the problem is that traffic resumed at 1:30. Anyway I stopped in Sabbionetta a Unesco site, plenty of german speaking archeologists measuring the houses around. It is a fortress with some remarquable buildings, including an old synagogue.

Then I rushed to Parma on the main road, risking my life for 40 km especially on the crossing of the Pô they were railings on both side a good way to get squeazed by a truck.

Anyway I arrived in Parma after cycling 80 km but stayed only one hour, just enough to check the city center with my bike then I decided to ride an other 60 km to Cremona.

Nice ride, following a cycling path to Viarolo, San Secondo Parmense, Roccabianca (nice medieval castle), Zibello, Polesine Parmense then stopped in Villanova. 10 km before Cremona a sign Oasis of bikes draw my attention, I proceeded to the farm house (hacienda), rang my bell to wake up dogs and cats, a man appeared and told me I could stay for 15 euros, I understood 50 and was ready to proceed to the camping when he added somethings like "and it also includes breakfast", at the tone of his voice I understood that he said 15 not 50. On top of that he was ready to have dinner and we ate together, garden peas and peperonis, the turkey of the house, cheese from the area and fantastic coppa, life is good !

Room 15 euros including breakfast (left more for the dinner, big discussion with Fasoli who didn't want any extra money) A great experience I highly recommand to stop here at least to greet Fasoli and his dogs: oasisofbikes.com

A bridge too low !

Parma

Oasis of bikes, Fasolandia di Fasoli ! 

Oasis of Bikes to Milan 140 km

Easy ride to Cremona, 12 km on cycle path in the Pô valley. I liked Cremona and took my time wandering aroud. I actually regretted cycling to Parma yesterday. From Cremona I followed an unpaved road until I left the province of Cremona, in the province of Lodi I followed a well indicated route "the Francisgena" to Lodi. From Lodi I biked on roads to Milan, most of the time I could use side roads cycle path.

Cycling in Milan is dangerous, even on cycle path, you have to be alert ! A big bourgeoise city, plenty of tourists not my favorite on a cycle trip !

Camping is horrible, stupid music concert all night long, at 2am I couldn't sleep. One more call for the boycottt of the Expo. On top of that the camping is full of weird dogs for the dog show world cup, some of them barked during the night, slept only three hours. Angry !

Camping too expensive 20 euros

Crossing the Pô

Milan

Milan - Stresa 108 km

This has been my 11th day cycling without a break, but tonight a well deserved 2 days break with Irene  is starting in Lago Maggiore. 

20 kilometers to leave Milan on the north were painfull, I used my GPS to Cestano, then reached an off road cycle path in the Parco del Ticino and followed a canal to Sesto Calende and Lago Magiore. We are staying in the mountains, hard ride from Meina to Brovello-Carpugrino were we will stay the Week-End. Big storm with thunder when I was cycling on the canal, saw a huge flash, too close, had to hide in the forest far away from my bike and wait for it to pass by. 

Lucky me, today I did set up my GPS to NO narrow trails, NO off road, this is were I am bike for an hour !

This is better ! Even under the rain.