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Saturday, August 16, 2014

From Belgium to Spain Part 3


I know that it has been a while, I have been back for a month now, anyway this is the last update for this trip. I stayed a week in Bordeaux, Irene joined me to the wine festival. Meanwhile I cycled around the Medoc wine area, to the lake of Hourtin 122 km, to Margaux 60 km and other places about 50 extra km.  Then it was time to go to Spain, I eventually decided to head up for the Basque country following the coastal cycling route EuroVelo 1, then head back to Bordeaux, the end of the trip in only 5 days.



Parempuyre (Haut-Médoc) - Moliets 182 km

I should have gone to Lacanau from Parempuyre, there is a nice cycle path that I cycled once. However I wanted to go to Spain as quickly as possible, I had only a few days remaining so I took the road going to Arcachon, the D1250 and then catching the cycle path again in Parentis. Big mistake, the road was very dangerous, straight, long and boring.
From Parentis I found the bike path it is then became a fantastic ride, through the sand dunes, along the lakes and the forest. The ride is easy because it is relatively flat, there is enough shade and you can always stop on the sea side villages to have an ice cream or lunch. I was fast and was surprised to see the number of kilometres I rode that day. I found a camping not far from the beach, price was 17 euros (my most expensive camping on this trip).

EuroVelo 1

Cork

The beach on the Atlantic coast
From Parentis-en-Born to Moliets-et-Maa




Moliets to Hondarribia (Spain) 115 km

Very bad weather but stil very enjoyable ride along the coast. From Moliets you stay on the cycle path until the suburb of bayonne. Bayonne is a nice city, I had lunch in the old town. Unfortunately the weather wasn't good and I had to cycle under the rain after lunch.
From Bayonne I followed the cost all the way to Hendaye altering cycle path and streets. The highlight being Biarritz and the Corniche in Hendaye, beautiful scenery. In Hendaye I took a small ferry to cross the Bidassoa estuary to Hondarribia where I found a nice camping at the point over looking France on the other side of the bay. Camp site 11 euros.


Bayonne the Adour river is high

Biarritz

The Corniche between St Jean de Luz and Hendaye

The ferry that took me accross for 2 euros

View of Hendaye from Hondarribia

Basque architecture

From Hondarribia to Cap Breton through Espelette 120 km

An other rainy day, it is the Basque Country after all ! On my bike I tend to like days like this, colors are different and with the right rain gear, it is all right. Today I decided to cycle along the river Bidassoa to the village of Bera, cycling the Col de Lizuniega to Sare, Ainhoa and Espelette where I ate a fantastic sandwich with Basque Cheese, red cherry and the famous Gateau Basque. I bought some Piment d'Espelette. The ride along the river Bidassoa is on a dirt road it was ok with regular tyres but I had a few difficult passages with big rocks and lot of mud, mountain bike tyres would have been better. The scenery is spectacular. mountain on both sides, wild water and not a soul. There are a few tunnels through the montain which are lit automatically when you ride through, some are with a manual switch, and you don't see through them, you'd better switch on your lights as well in case the timer stops too early, it happened to me.
In Bera I headed back to France following a small road to Sera then up to the Col de Lizuniega, beautiful view, easy ride up, "pur plaisir". From there I rode down the valley and up again on a more busy road to Espelette.
After lunch I followed the river Nive on a beautiful cycle path along fields of Peper d'Espelette to Bayonne.
In Bayonne I caught the cycle path I took when I came one day earlier cycling back this time to Cap Breton, 20 km from Moliets. I could see a guy struggling against the wind in front of me, I eventually caught up and we chatted while cycling together to Cap Breton where we shared a place at the camp site. He was tired when I caught him but at the end of the day I was also extremely tired. That night we watch soccer in the snack of the Camping municipal. The morning after Lothar was already gone when I woke up, I didn't hear him fold his tent.
Price per night 12 euros. The Camping Municipal offers services to cyclists, tools, repair kits, pump, cleaning stuff etc... are available, the next morning I used some grease for my chain.

An other stormy day

Following the Rio Bidassoa on a dirt path

The green way of Bidassoa

A short tunnel, you can see an other one a bit further





Espelette the dry Chili pepper is hanging at the shop


From Cap Breton to Biscarosse 135 km

Same cycling path I took three days ago still it is very pleasant to see the same forest, no cars, just a few bikers and people walking. Around 11am I caught up Lothar and we had lunch together. Some nice cheese he bought at a market in one of the village we passed. Then we cycled our parted, after Parentis instead of going to Bordeaux through the main road I followed the cycle path to Biscarosse. On my way I met a cyclist and a guy walking on sticks from Brittany to the Landes for a charity event L'Echassier du coeur. I found a camping on the Etang de Biscarosse, unfortunately despite the location the camping was very noisy with stupid animation and music until 12am and people still chatting out loud next to my tent until 2 am. It is one of this mega-camping where they entertain the tourists called Campaneole that I would advise you to avoid if you look for a quiet place. Price 12 euros.

Lothar my bike buddy for a day, never heard of him again I hope that he safely reached Hamburg by now.


L'échassier du coeur

Next to the lake but noisy camping



Biscarosse - Bordeaux 117 km

The last leg of my journey. I am sad, I wish I could keep cycling at least three more years. I went through a different road this time. I wanted to cycle through the big sand dunes to the Pyla (the Dune du Pilat is located in Pyla), then around the Bassin d'Arcachon. In the village of Lanton I left the cycle path and took a small deserted road to the suburb of Bordeaux.

The top of the trees under the Dune du Pilat, moving forward 3 to 4 meters a year.

My favorite restaurant next to Bordeaux Lou Couqueou where my brother and I were authorised by the owner to lick the plate ! 


2200 km total in three weeks
14 days cycling from Belgium to Spain and 3 more days back to Bordeaux (without the stop in Bordeaux and the day trips cycling around)
Average 110 km per day on the trip.


THE END ...