Antwerpen - LONDON - Antwerpen

Antwerpen - LONDON - Antwerpen 793 KM, 9 days, 8 nights

Once again on the road for a memorable bike trip. Antwerpen to London and back with my new Ortlieb waterproof bags (they are really waterproof way better than the crap I used in September) and my new "technical" clothes, one Tshirt I bought stated on the label that it converts your sweat into energy. Well I was wet and cold after my first day and had few energy left. However these new breathable clothes are great if you know how to use them and after a few tries I decided to wear just my anti sweat shirt Colombia and a Gore cycling vest. It is cold for about 5 minutes then it gets warm even in cold temperatures but I had to be careful when stopping because I was getting cold quickly. Therefore I was putting a sweatshirt every time I was stopping for a coffee.
I also had 2 set of gloves to keep my finger warm. 2 pairs of socks and a shoe cover which prevented the rain to soak my shoes, it happened anyway the water was still entering my shoes, I still don't know how but my shoes were soaked the first day. My pants were cycling pants Gore, pretty good and warm.

Day 1 - 97 Km Antwerp Belgium to Sluis The Netherlands
Light rain leaving Antwerp towards the border, following the border wasn't really interesting because of the motorway and fast roads that I had to follow at one point even though I was always on a cycle path, once in The Netherlands after Sas Van Gent it started to be better. However the heavy rain and strong headwind started and my sight seeing was a bit chilly.
Sluis is a charming Dutch village with a windmill and some pretty canals around. I stayed in a cheap family pension for 25 euros a night found on booking.com the owner was a bit weird she kept on telling me that it was a good price including breakfast but the room was warm enough and comfortable.

Day 2 - 103 Km Sluis The Netherlands to Dunkirk (St Pol sur Mer) France
Crossing Belgium in a day. I started the day under the Sun, but rain caught me at 10 am.
Very nice ride along a canal from Sluis to Brugge. Then a bit boring until Newport. The last kilometres in France were difficult, there is no cycle path from the border to Dunkirk - St Pol sur Mer.  City center of Dunkerk is nice. I stayed in a Pemière classe Hotel 40 euros a night including Breakfast.

 Leaving Sluis

Sluis in the morning sun 

 Crossing a canal on a self pulling ferry quite fun and unnecessary but I had to try.

One of Brugge's gate, actually the ugliest, for some reasons I didn't take pics of Brugges canals and city but Brugge is a very nice place.


Day 3 -  93 Km Dunkirk (St Pol sur mer) France to Sittingbourne UK
To get to the ferry in Loon Plage was a bit difficult, trucks everywhere rushing to get to the ferries and motorways or High speed roads with no obvious directions. The signs to the ferries were pointing to the motorway that I couldn't take. After 90 minutes and 25 km instead of 15 I found the right road to the ferry and bought my passage to Dover 19 euros on DFDS ferry.
Smooth passage but the rain was waiting for me. I started cycling up and up and up and realised how flat was my ride until Kent, Dover being at sea level I had to go all the way on the top of the cliffs.
After Temple Ewe, I took the small muddy roads, for five minutes I had some frozen rain, it almost started to snow but it stopped and a light rain started. Trying not to get on the A2. I passed numerous pubs called The George and even the George Chinese restaurant, I stopped in one of the George for a Ploughman's sandwich and my first english beer. Unfortunately I couldn't avoid the A2 for my last hour cycling, it was dark and raining hard I lit my bike like a christmas tree until I reached the Premier inn in Sittingbourne, I was soaked and cold and couldn't reach my planned destination Rochester.

Leaving Dunkirk at 10 am

Cliffs of Dover 2 hours later

Day 4 - 93 Km, Sittingbourne to London Croydon
I left the hotel dry and the weather stayed dry most of the day, I had occasional light rain but no more than 10 minutes. I cycled to Rochester were I had a breakfast in a coffee place, nice old town center. After Rochester I found a cycle path leading to Greenwich along the motorway, pretty easy going and flat, I passed the Cycling center after Rochester near Gravesend, had a flat tyre 2 Km laters, cycled back to the bike center for a new tube, I wish they had new tyres as well, my front tyre needs to be changed. Then I got lost again and reached Greenwich, from there I reached the suburb of London. Urban ride but not too bad Peckham, Brixton and Croydon where I met a cool guy named Mark on Brixton hill on a bike who accompanied me all the way to my hotel, he said that we were 40 mn from the hotel I was exhausted but followed him. I gave him my St Martin magnet card and in the evening later received a welcoming email. He also has a blog that I invite you to check, the ski bike is really cool, I have to go to the Alps and try it. Mark advised a few places to go out but I was so tired that I stayed in the hotel, plus I decided to stay an extra night here on his advise.

http://www.skibike.me.uk

I stayed in a Premier inn in Croydon for just over 50 pounds which is a good value for Greater London and close enough to Central London by bike.

Crossing Peckham towards Brixton

Fish and chips at the hotel, too exhausted to go out, the peas were excellent.

Day 5 - 50 Km  Croydon - Brixton - CENTRAL LONDON - Brixton - Croydon 
Brunch in Brixton with some friends then epic ride towards Central London. Relaxing day though, after my brunch with Marianne, Marie-Françoise and Antony, I rode to Tower Bridge then rode on the Thames for a bit, cycled to Trafalgar square were a French rooster is exposed just behind Nelson, interesting ! Westminster Abbey, the Parliement and Big Ben where I checked my watch.
Riding inside the Congestion zone is easy not as many cars as in Greater London, Just have to be careful with the bus though the buses are very well equipped with cameras and mirrors that minimize  dead angles I am not sure that city buses in Antwerp are that equipped. However cycling in London is not easy, cycle path are almost inefficient and you have to share the busses' lane most of the time.
The night I arrived the Chief of Police was stating on TV that riding a bike in London is so dangerous that he wouldn't recommend it.
“I’ve never been a big bike rider anyway but it seems to me that if you get it wrong, or if the driver gets it wrong, the person that’s going to pay is the cyclist,” ... “It seems to me there’s a lot of traffic, and personally I wouldn’t (cycle).” Hogan-Howe London's Top Cop.
After my London ride I went back to Croydon were I had dinner at Mirch Masala, a place recommended by my fellow biker Mark. Fantastic indian food, I had a Mutton Tandoori Masala and digested on the bus to Brixton to meet my friends in a pub. Croydon is a good and cheap location to stay while in London, great connections, east Croydon station can take you to Central London pretty quickly, there is a tram and numerous busses, Kent is very close as well and good places to eat to.

 My old bike Treck 7200, fantastic bike so far 3000 km since september.

 The blue rooster and Nelson

 Cleaning the bus with my right shoulder. I am still waiting for my penny.

Mirch Masala I want more

The phantom of Electric Lane appears next to me in front of the first electrified street of London in Brixton, watch the pics carefully.

Day 6 - 81 Km, Croydon to Lenham

Nice ride, no rain through Kent. Quite a few hill once leaving Croydon, Addicton Hill is interesting, cannabis is growing wild on the side of the road and it is ready to harvest.
I stopped in Fiona's pantry in Keston, nice area, lots of wood around then headed to Maidstone towards Lenham. I found an old hotel the Harrow inn on top of a hill in a village of 12 houses called Otterden, 40 pounds with full English breakfast, it was worth it. The manager was nice and opened the kitchen just for me it is usually closed on sundays, the clients of the hotel eventually noticed it was open and came for the drinks, I had a great pasta dish with 2 pints of ciders.

Day 7 - 78 Km, Lenham UK to Dunkirk France

The nicest day, dry, sunny and a fantastic ride through Kent. From the hotel on the hill the road went downfall the way to Wye, I remembered the train station next to the river, I waited for a train there about 20 years ago. Fantastic scenery. I took plenty of refreshing pictures until I reached Temple Ewe then Dover.

I boarded the ferry at 1 pm and arrived in Dunkirk 3 hours later to find my Première Classe Hotel for 25 euros a night. Thanks to the hotel manager on both nights he let me put my bike in my bedroom and assigned me one of the invalid bedrooms on the ground floor, very convenient.

 Wye

 Wye

 Leaving Dover on the ferry

Day 8 - 98 Km Dunkirk France to Wingene Belgium

A really difficult ride, the roads were wet and the few trucks and tractors were spreading a mix of pig shit and insecticide on me. I passed the city of Diksmuide and its massive monument against the war stating NO MORE WAR. An other good reason to support EU, I passed to many war graves along my different trips.
Wingene is a small village were nothing happens in winter. Irene had booked a place in a farm called Het Verloren Goed, hard to find without a GPS. Nice place, 50 euros a night for a full apartment with 2 double beds.

I just wanted a latte, I guess they wanted me to have an'ice Chouffe welcome to Belgium !

 The NO MORE WAR monument

Dirty roads, happy with my waterproof bags

Day 9 - 100 Km Wingene to Antwerpen

A nice ride alongside the canal from Beernem to Gent. Nice weather and dry roads. Cycle path after Gent.
Gent is a beautiful city and I tend to prefer it to Brugge though the majority won't agree, it is also a canal city which remind me a little bit of Amsterdam.
After Gent I rode along the N70 to Sint Niklaas then Antwerp on cycle paths. Took the bicycle tunnel and rode happily home, Irene had my cycle bags in Wingene so I rode fast and reached Antwerp in 6 hours including about 1 hour stop for brunch. I arrived at 2 pm.

 At 8 am along a canal in Belgium

City of Gent

The end !

Oostende - Bordeaux - Tours

Day 1. Oostende - Cassel 80 km

It was supposed to be 65 Km but I ended up doing 80.

I've learn a few things on that ride:

Whatever direction you go, the wind is always in front of you.

If you cross the border several times you might be making rounds.

Beware of the tractors.

However the ride was nice between Nieupoort and Veurne along the canal. Then smal roads with no traffic until Wormhout. For Wormhout to Cassel I took the main road, 10 k nothing special.

Cassel is a nice village in the 'Mons des Flandres' 157 meters. Had a relaxing evening with Irene who decided to join me. We stayed in a gîte 'Au vert vallon', very nice rooms, nice people.

Tomorrow, I will be camping in Fruges, on the map 44 km easy ride I guess.

Ps: for a few who had concerns, no it doesn't hurt... Yet

The bike rest café near Veurne

The border 3 km from Honschotte

Day 2. Cassel - Fruges 70 km

The panorama around Cassel my first paved road going up. As I said in a previous post Cassel is worth a visit. Cycling around is quite pleasant, on my way to St Omer I took the secondary roads, and went through Renescure, the train station was bombed so often that they built a shelter for the train manager. This little beton thing on the right, I am not sure I can fit inside.

Saint Omer is a modern city with an old town but a didn't find it very nice. i talked to a number of British cyclists doing London to Paris for charity, wounded of war, they cycled 170 km a day but they had a car, following them and they stayed in nice hôtels.

Fron St Omer to Fruges was tough, the rain hit me from 1 to 4, I was soaked, truck driver had no compassion at all and in general French drivers are not bike aware.

Thumbs up for Dutch and German cars so far.

I arrived in Fruges extremely tired and needed to cool down, I thought I was sick, I started shivering after my hot shower, I decided to walk around the town for an hour to cool down.

I stayed at a camp site called Le Paradis were the owners of the mobile homes tried to recreate their little Paradise with numerous garden Dwarfs, plastic geese with ties and a few plastic dogs, a bit spooky I have to admit, the camping was almost empty and I kept thinking of a mix of the movies Deliverance and the Bates Motel. however the  manager who lives on site is very nice and he even locked the bike for the night in the shower, nice gesture. I paid 7 euros 50 and 3 euros for the hot showers, good value.

However Fruges is not the best village around, I found Hesdin on my way to Abbeville more interesting.

Day 3. Fruges to Abbeville 72 km

Nice cyclig day and no trucks, unlike yesterday. I started at 8:30 went to the market in Fruges, bought some peaches and headed to Hesdin, I was in Artois not in Flanders anymore (actually St Omer was my last Flamish city... And by the way can someone tell me since when and why is Antwerp considering itself a Flamish city ? ), I just realised that while noticing a nice historical site after Fruges worth the detour because I heard about it so many times in history books, movies and Plays.

Yes the battlefield of Agincourt (Azincourt) where Thomas Personne (my family name) drew his arrows on the French troups, I will tell you more about my family genealogy one day.

Henri V stayed here before the battle.

It happened here I am standing on the side of England. The French were on the other side stuck in the mud.

The Sun of Satan is a cycle tour around the battle field.

After Azincourt I cycled towards Hesdin uphill and Uphill again untill the way down to Hesdin, nice little city were I met 4 fellow cyclists from the Midlands with whom I chatted for a while then I started going uphill again and again. I have learn one thing, if you do 50 km/h downhill for 5 mn, don't smile too much because you might end up doing 5 km/hour for the next 20 mn and it hurts.

On the way to Abbeville the village of Le Boisle

Abbevillle was my destination, nice 'camping municipal'. The camping is along side a small lake with hot shower and free wifi all of that for 6 euros.

I have been directed here by Marion at the tourism office of Abbeville. Extremely nice and professionnal, what a service, she speaks english pretty well (well I heard her helping other tourists) The tourism office of Abbeville has Free Wifi as well. One day I will come back and cycle in The Baie de Somme, it seems like a nice place.

Day 4. Abbeville to Neufchatel-en-Bray 60 km

Just 60 km, what a relief, I needed to relax before the rain to come tomorrow. I took my time in the morning and left at 9:30, I had to wait for my clothes to dry, while waiting a French couple offered me coffee in their small camping car. Very nice of them, I can't wait to purchase a California van now (yes Irene I have changed my mind again).

After 4 days it is time to talk about my physical condition, excellent, it doesn't even hurt (lol !). Of course the knees are a bit tight, my bottom is a bit touchy and my legs are stiff in the morning, but I feel good, I only have a small issue with my upper back below my neck but I will survive.

it was hard to find the right diet when I started, now I have a routine, light breakfast at 8 am with coffee milk and fruits then around 11 I eat more, a sandwich or 2 (this morning I had a spring roll, a nem, cheese and fruit) then in the evening I am light again, small portion of pasta (200g) or soup with bread or like tonight a small cheese with cereal bread, one third of what I am use to eat in the evening plus a fruit.

Today I cycled through Blangy sur Bresle, reach 50 k an hour downhill for 5 minutes before I reached a small market where I wandered around. By then I had forgotten the Tao's cycling laws:

1 if you go 50 km an hour for 5' be prepared to do 5 km an hour for 30 minutes

2 if the village is down the valley where a river runs through it, be aware that you'll have to leave the valley at one point.

So I cycled painfully to the next village called Foucarmont, a good thing is that until then the Wind generators surrounding the area, unlike the one I saw the last 2 days, where not moving much. I stopped for a coke in a small café where 4 guys obviously spending their sundays drinking, whatelse is there to do in Foucarmont, and they told me that the next hill would be very tough, they were almost right, it's the one after and the one after and the one after untill I reach the 50 km again before destination.

No trucks on Sunday and almost no cars so I could take the departemental. On the top of Blangy there is anice forest worth exploring I will come back for sure for a tour in the area.

 Tough weather condition but I get ice for my drink.

Blangy sur Bresles market on Sunday morning
http://youtu.be/WUfY4ReHb_k

Day 5. Neufchatel en Bray to Rouen 60 km

Rain rain and wind my Nemesis from 8 am till 8 am. funny is that everyone says tat they had a splendid summer this year, first rainy day for a long time. the ride wasn't nice, up and up until I reached the suburbs of Rouen having one idea in mind, buy myself a winter coat and another fleece. I found an intersport and exchanged my wet clothes for a warm breathable jacket. Then I headed to a post war camping in St Leger. Closest to Rouen, don't ever go there, their toilets are what the French call Turquish toilets, first you have to avoid shiting on your pants and second you have to run out when you  flush.

Of course no camp fire under the rain so I cycled back to Rouen, 5 extra Km and punctured my back tyre, I changed the inner tube under the rain and realised that the French use different valves than mine, of course I needed an adaptor and couldn't get air and it was pouring. I looked around, no cyclists, I walked 2 km to a petrol station, their compressor was out of order, anyway they had no adaptor, and then I saw this guy with a german bike, all geared up coming towards me. I asked him if he had a pump, he answered no but stopped and inquired about the problem, then he said "I don't have a pump but I happen to carry an adapter with me" so here we go thanks to this very nice man Guillaume Gosset, we chatted a little bit, his bike had 10000 km on the meter and he was very knowledgeable about bikes, his bike and a sort of automatic gear adaptor, he could control his torque by turning the handle. Never seen that system but it seemed interesting, he said he would read this blog so he can give me the nameof that system again. I went to Rouen, quite empty, but nice little streets and the famous cathedral, had some chinese noddles and went back realising that I had to find a bike shop to change my tyre and buy an inner tube and an adapter.

Tough morning, cold, my neighboor made some tea for me, nice woman, but I couldn't stop her from chatting, she recently divorced and blablabla living in a tent because her husband was in the house and blablabla kids blabla money and blabla she spotted a woman she knew and left me to my wet packing. I found the shop that Guillaume had indicated and had a good day cycling to Bernay.

Small street in Rouen, lots of work there for carpenters.

Day 6. Rouen to Bernay 70 km

The sun was not always there I rode as fast as I can to Elboeuf following the Seine river. After Elboeuf I found the area pretty nice, I arrived in Le Neubourg where I reached La voie verte, it is a network of old train lines wich are now cycle path, pretty nice, there is one going from Dieppe to Paris as well, lots of cyclists where doing it, all flat. In Le Neubourg and around their are 8 voies vertes according to the woman at the tourism office, formely a train station. I headed to Beaumont le roi, nice easy ride, and the area is nice with a big forest and plenty of cycling roads, with old normand cities and houses, the only problem is that there is no camping in Le Neubourg or Beaumont au roi, I had to cycle to an other village 16 km away and Slightly off my road, worse I had to go North again.

Anyway The ride was great small bike itinary in the forest owned by the Duchess of ?? (The tourist info booth mentioned her but I didn't record) it is a private forest, pretty large, I crossed a few rivers, saw some nice houses along the way, I picked blackberries on the way and the sun was nice. One of the best 16 km of my trip.

On top of that the camping is clean, modern and the manager a nice helping person. I can do my washing, no need to pay extra for hot shower, fantastic and tomorrow will be sunny.

My meter with all the little cycles through towns is now at 430 km.

Day 7. Bernay to Beaulieu 65 km

This morning was rainy, then it stopped, no sun but a very nice ride on the voie verte following the river to La Broglie and La Ferté Frenel. Fantastic ride through a forest and the bocages of Normandie, no cars and no trucks at all. I am now about to tour the city of L'aigle wich was the turning point of the Debarquement in Normandie. I recommend this area for biking and will come back, plenty of things to do.

Just a note to thank the tourism office of L'Aigle for their help and particularly the manager Valery who's been helpful and provides free WiFi on site, in general I found the tourism office pretty efficient in France and very helpful.

Percheron horse

Tonight I am staying in Beaulieu, close enough to my initial route, but with all the rain and low temperatures 14 celsius in the evening I can't just camp anywhere I need a hot shower. I found it here on a huge farm called Domaine de Theuil. Funny enough the farm borders The Kingdom of France. A French King built a large ditch between The Duchy of Normandy and France to stop the invasion of band of thieves.

The farm has beautiful Percheron horses and the usual farm animals sheep, cows, dog, cat, mice and chicken and more birds that I can't name. Unfortunately the place is relatively expensive and the toilets are not very clean.

Ditch between French Kingdom and Normandy

Day 8. Beaulieu to Montbizot 87 km

Fantastic ride again except for the rain the morning.

I left Normandy and I am just North of Le Mans in La Sarthe. Once again Normandy is a great area to cycle through, not that windy thanks to all the "bocages", natural hedges stopping the wind and sometimes protecting from the rain, some of them are very high. The area is full of great historic sites from Rollo The Viking till the 2nd World War and the forest are huge deep and designed for biking and hiking. I also found the people nice and helpful.

This morning I cycled through The Perche area and the Forêt du Perche towards Mortagne-au-Perche, you can cycle the entire day in that forest in the center you have a star like rotonde with 8 different direction to go through, I choosed Lignerolles. The Perche area also gave it's name to the working horse Percheron.

Forest of Perche 8 directions to explore.

Abbaye de La Trappe

From Mortagne I reached Mamers through small roads again and decided to go further, the rain had stopped and the temperature seemed better and I felt great, nothing aches now and I feel in shape, I hope that it will last because I need to go a bit faster and reach Bordeaux before next Week-end.

Mamers, my iphone needs more light it's 12am and so dim.

Tonight the sun is back for an hour, huge grey clouds are forming but I managed to dry most of my clothes. The camping of Monbizot is nice, the cheapest I have been to: 3 euros and 85 cents. You have to pay at the Mairie to the secretary, it's just me and 2 guys working on the construction of a new TGV line. Generally speaking I prefer to stay in Camping Municipal, great value, between 3,85 and 7 euros so far for a tent and one person, and all facilities are free (in some private campings you have to buy tokens for a hot shower, ridiculous) and in good order, my guess is that they have to follow some strict norms in terms of facilities, I also notice that in all the Camping Municipal the places are separated by vegetal hays so you don't see your neighboor. So far I give a five star to the one in Bernay, quiet with all facilities, free Wifi and an area with coffee machine (40 cts the cappuccino) and a soup and cold drink dispenser, even a TV salon all of this for 6 euros and 80 cts (I had a cappuccino and a soup. Tonight is not as good as Bernay but better than most and I will sleep confortably under the rain to come, if only I had a pillow...

I met an other long distance cyclist, Nono (not sure I heard right) he left Portugal in June and he is heading towards Nijmegem for the bike fest in 10 days, he is also cycling 70 km a day, but he will have to be faster if he wants to reach Nijmegem in time. We exchanged a few Mirabelles and chatted 30 mn, interesting chap. He is mainly doing wild camping and uses wood for his stove. I am an amateur next to him.

On my way to Montbizot

My clothes are under the only shining spot in the  camping, it didn't last long.

Chinese noodles tonight.

Day 9, Montbizot to La Flèche 65 km

I left Normandie and crossed La Sarthe. Le Mans is the main attraction with its Plantagenêt old city and Bastion.

Leaving Le Mans towards La Suze sur Sarthe was not very easy the suburb of Le Mans extend South of the city. Near La Suze and after towards La Flèche on the D12 was a much more enjoyable ride. It is funny to notice that south of Le Mans, the grass is quite yellow and you find more pine trees than North of Le Mans. The green pasture of Normandie have quickly disapeared. Nonetheless it is quite charming, tonight I will stay in La Flèche and explore that area.

The Sarthe river (I discovered the Panorama function of my iphone nice;) )

Day 10, La Flèche 0 km

 2 pm a rainy afternoon.

Too much rain and 16 celsius. I decided to have a one day break wich is fine as long as nothing else happens and that I arrive before next week-end.

The camping municipal of La Flèche is cheap 5 euros and it has a swimming pool that I am not fool enough to use. Located on the river Loir, it is a nice place to stay and relax for the day. 

 La Flèche is a typical French city with it's old castle, river and monuments. Lots of water mill in the area and one is making ice, apparently worth visiting but I am too cold for the three km ride.

Loire river, the camping municipal is a three stars camping on the right.

It is 5:30 pm now and the camping employee took pity on me, temperatures have now dropped to 14 celsius and helped me have a nice relaxing evening  in the TV room with free tokens to wash and dry all my clothes, though it well might be my sorry smile or my smell wich triggered the generosity.

Day 11. La Flèche to Doué La Fontaine 72 km

Nice ride starting in a "voie verte", so nice that after one hour, when I thought that I eventually reached the next city the sign "La Flèche welcomes you" was a bit ennoying, I have been cycling around my departure city for 10 km. Nonetheless it was a nice ride, the sun eventually was out despite a few clouds and I flew towards the river Loire. Just as I was about to cross it I met an other cyclist from Scotland cycling to the Algarve. The guy is 72 years old and cycled everywhere around the world, crossing deserts, he told me about his cycling trip to Soudan, to NZ, to Australia, To Alaska, to the States, crossing the Sahara desert, Algeria, Mali, Russia, Ouzbekistan, India, Israel, Jordania, Syria etc... All of that cycling and camping anywhere. We chatted for a while, shared lunch on the other side of the river and he decided to camp with me in the next village, we cycled the 20 k together. Strong  guy he was faster than me uphill, his steel bike is so heavy that I couldn't lift it. Interesting personnalia with plenty of stories, in 50 years trekking with bike he had so many accidents, close to death sometimes (bitten by a cobra in a desert somewhere, stung by spiders in Australia, infected by a dog in Portugal, pushed by a car, a truck etc...) but he is still riding long distances mainly in southern europe now every winter.

The countryside has changed, architecture has well, South of The Loire is a different world.

My first Sun flowers a sunny day.

La Loire

A dolmen

My Scottish buddy's bike.

A few good tips from a Scottish travel bike Mogul:

Get some gloves, if you fall, even slowly you will save your skin on your palm.

Get some waterproof cycling bags, Ortlieb will work fine.

Get a bigger, lighter tent, you must be able to cook inside if it rains.

Get front luggage, to balance the weight.

Buy some Marathon extra tyres that are hard to puncture, he mentionned the brand Schwalbe.

A part from a small camping there is nothing worth staying for in Doué La Fontaine.

Day 12. Doué La Fontaine to Bressuire 60 km

Nice little ride through farming areas, nothing special to mention.

Unfortunately in a nice village called Argenton Les Vallées you should avoid the café Calimero, the owner is rude and apparently doesn't like tourists in general I had to refrain myself kicking his ass but instead will use trip advisor and other French tourist website to make my point, not to mention the tourism office wich will receive a thick email with comprehensive details on how to welcome tourists. 

Fortunately the camping where I stay tonight in Bressuire is run by a very civilized British couple, they offered to put my bike in a dry place and when the rain started they offered me to finish my dinner under one of their tent and even offered a hot coffee or tea that I declined tonight but will accept tomorrow morning (the offer is still pending).

This bike belongs to a Dane Jens going from Denmark to St Jacques de Compostella for the 3rd consecutive time, we chatted a little bit.

Day 13. Bressuire to Maillezais 70 km

Nice ride in Vendée in the "hauts bocages". On the way I met John again, a nice surprise, we took different roads and joined in Maillezais where we share a camp site.

The ride was excellent until the last 13 km, where it started to rain. I arrived soaked at the camp site, 30 mn before John.

The road to L'Absie was nice through farm and forest wich reminded me of Normandie. Then I found a bicycle road (voie verte) going to Maillezais wich went through the forest of Vendée, not always tar road though and at one point I was afraid I might puncture my tyre so I did the 10 km to St Hilaire des loges on the Departementale and the ride was equally nice, no truck no car. From there, it started raining and I reached Maillezais as quick as I could.

I am now a few days bike from Bordeaux I should easily make it for Friday unless heavy rain stop me.

Day 14. Maillezais to Rochefort 58 km

Rain and wind.

Not a great ride, long straight road before Rochefort going slightly up and front wind. However I chatted with a nice guy on the market of Cirçon who's selling nice coffee, the road to cirçon was ok, I crossed many rivers and the famous Marais Poitevin. I also met an other guy on a bike goingnfrom Spain to GB, John is 68 years old and is doing this for the first time. I look like an 'amateur' compare to  most of the long distance cyclist I met so far.

I am now close to Bordeaux, my next stop is on the other side of the Garonne, one more night and a long ride.

Nice guy, nice coffee

The other John

Rochefort

Building of the Hermione ship

Day 15. Rochefort to Pauillac 120 km

Great ride, good weather I took the small roads on the way to Royan and passed several polders, beautiful sceneries. Unfortunately the transborder bridge was closed and I had to take the bridge of Charentes, very dangerous, avoid it if you can.

On the other side I followed the river towards Pauillac through the wine château, I reached 1000 km on my meter. Tomorrow is my final destination just 40 to 50 km. 

Transborder bridge in Rochefort

The ferry across the Garonne from Royan to Le Verdon

Scenery on the Medoc shore

St Estephe

My view from the camping municipal of Pauillac, my last night camping before Bordeaux.

Day 16. Pauillac to Bordeaux 45 km

I cycled through the best of Bordeaux wine area, passed Margaux and Rotschild, then flat ride through the suburbs, stopped and bought a magnum of haut

-medoc 2008 cru bourgeois.

On arrival my meter indicates 1070 km.

Early departure.

Around Margaux

2 days rest before my next ride.

Bordeaux 2 days

Place de la Bourse

The water mirror with fog

Full moon

After Bordeaux I decided to go further as the weather was going to be good for a few more days.

From Bordeaux to Tours - Day 1 Bordeaux to Baignes Sainte Radegonde 95 km

Nice ride in the most deserted area I have cycled so far between Virsac and Baignes, lovely ride through a pine forest.

Leaving Bordeaux on the Pont d'Aquitaine

Day 2 Baignes to Villefagnan 80 km

A all day ride through the Cognac area, hilly but beautiful area.

Cognac area

Dolmen

Day 3 Villefagnan to Iteuil 78 km

Flat ride untill the village of Voulon then up and dwnhill along the Clain river to Vivonne, nice area.

Day 4 Iteuil to Tour 140 km

A nice ride from Iteuil to Poitiers, quite short though, after that I tried the small roads to Tours but it wasn't my best ride, the problem is that "Departementale" D910 is the most direct way and taking the D1 you end up zigzaging around the 910 and the motorways.
Ste Maure de Touraine seems to be worth a visit but it was raining hard, the Tourism office was exceptionnaly closed so I passed.
I spent the night in Montbazon the closest camping to Tours then cycled the next 20 km to the train station. My train goes to Lille and I will take a train to Antwerp from Lille. Somehow it is impossible to have a bike in the Thalys to Bruxelles or it must be paked in a special housing wich is too complicated.

My bike trip has ended after 3 weeks: 20 days of cycling, 1470 km cycling, 75 km average per day, longest ride 120 km, shortest 23 km today to reach the train station, I stopped 1 day going south because of the rain and 2 days in Bordeaux. The first two weeks were humids and cold, the last week was hot and unfortunately rainny the last day. 

I decided to stop because lots of rain is announced for the week-end and next week, way north it is getting cold and humid now but I will do it again with better material.

I've learn a few things wich are completing Thierry's tao of biking:

Never ask a car driver how long does it take to go the next village. He has no clue on a bike. Just ask how many kilometers.

Don't ask if the road is hilly to a car driver. For a car driver every roads are flat.

Most people usually think that the first three days cycling are the easiest. I say it all depends where the next hills are and how high they are.

Foggy morning untill 11am

I passed many rivers, this one is before Chatellerault I think that it is the Vienne.

Before that I passed the Clain. After I passed the Indre and the cher.